Love the sweet and creamy scent of vanilla? And did you know that it’s actually a type of orchid native to southeastern Mexico?! Its aroma has accompanied mankind for some 900 years, both in culinary and beauty care. Not only is its scent soothing, but the natural ingredients have beneficial effects on our skin. Join us on a walk in the footsteps of vanilla and discover its magic for beautiful and healthy skin!
Black flower
Vanilla is a species of orchid native to southeastern Mexico. It is one of the few orchids that produces a fruit called a vanilla pod and is the only orchid that has an edible fruit! The first to cultivate it were the Totonacs, from whom, after their humiliation, the mighty Aztecs learned to grow and use it. The Aztecs called it “tlilxóchitl” or “black flower” and were historically the first culture to mix cocoa and vanilla in their drinks. The mixture was very similar to our “hot chocolate”, but they called it “xocolatl”. The Aztec emperor Montezuma is said to have said that xocolatl is “A divine drink that builds stamina and fights fatigue. A cup of this precious drink allows a man to go a whole day without eating.” The Spaniards, who were not used to its smell, initially called it a drink for pigs!
Bourbon or Mexican vanilla
After Cortez’s conquest of the Aztec empire (1519) and his return to Spain, the culinary magic of this aromatic fruit was discovered. With European expansion around the world, vanilla cuttings were transplanted to other tropical areas to see where they could thrive. It grew, but it did not bear fruit. Belgian botanist Charles Morren concluded that the reason was the Mexican melipone bee, which lives nowhere else in the world. This bee was the only source of pollination for the vanilla orchid. And this is where the practice of hand pollination began. The Bourbon Islands (now Reunion, the name ‘Bourbon’ being derived from the last French royal dynasty), controlled by the French and located near the tip of Madagascar, proved to be the most suitable area for vanilla cultivation. By the end of the 19th century, Mexico was still the world’s number one vanilla producer. Today, however, more than 70 % of the world’s vanilla is produced in Madagascar.
Natural or synthetic vanillin
Vanilla is very expensive and it is very labour intensive, just like real rose oil. It needs an average year-round tropical climate of around 25 degrees to grow. The first flowers appear after 2-3 years of cultivation. The flowers are yellow-green and must be pollinated by hand within 24 hours of flowering. If pollination does not occur, the flower will wilt and fall off. The most important component of vanilla that forms its characteristic aroma is vanillin (4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde), which is relatively easy to synthesise despite its clumsy chemical name. Vanillin can be made from petrochemical products; from lignin, a by-product of the wood and paper industry; and from eugenol, a component of clove oil. It can even be produced from castoreum, the molasses secretion from the anal glands of beavers!
From vanilla pod to flower water
After the harvest, the processing and transformation of the vanilla begins. The vanilla pods go through a series of steps that stop them from ripening and activate the enzymes that produce the characteristic aroma. They are then slowly dried in the sun or in special drying ovens until they are dark brown and soft. After drying, the pods are sorted and packed. Some are sold whole, others are ground or processed into vanilla extract or absolutes (essential oil), hydrosols (flower water). The process of transforming vanilla requires patience and expertise to preserve its delicate fragrance and exquisite flavour.
Scent and aromatherapy
Vanilla has a sweet, warm and delicately floral scent. Its scent is described as sweet, creamy and slightly woody. Vanilla evokes notes of caramel, chocolate and cream and a soothing sensation that makes it desirable in desserts and fragranced products. In aromatherapy, the sweet and warm aroma of its Vanilla flower water is used for nervousness and anxiety. Famed aromatherapist Valerie Worwood classifies vanilla as a scent that simply dispels sadness. It can help ease feelings of anxiety and bring the body, mind and spirit into balance, especially during challenging times. It has almost uplifting and aphrodisiac effects. Its magical fragrance will transport you to exotic lands, where time passes at its own pace. Some scientific research suggests that vanilla’s positive effects on mood stimulate the production of serotonin, or the happiness hormone.
Beneficial effects of vanilla on the skin
Vanilla is rich in antioxidants that prevent skin damage caused by free radicals. Thus, it helps to slow down the signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Its flower water and absolutes are widely used in the cosmetic industry, not only for their wonderful fragrance. It has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and is therefore also suitable for problematic skin. Vanilla flower water deeply moisturizes and regenerates the skin. It is used as a traditional remedy for healing burns, wounds and cuts. This potential is demonstrated by a 2023 scientific study published in the Journal of advanced pharmaceutical technology and research. Another interesting fact is a 2017 study examining the effect of vanillin on psoriasis.
DIY practical caring tips
Vanilla-pink body scrub
2 tablespoons cane sugar
1 tbsp almond oil with 1 drop of rose oil
2-3 crumbled rose flowers
1 tsp vanilla flower water
Mix all the ingredients into a thick paste. Apply in the shower on damp skin. Rub into the skin in gentle circular motions and then rinse with water. Lock moisture in your skin with your favorite oil according to your skin type.
Vanilla-honey face mask
2 tbsp thick natural white yoghurt
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp ground oatmeal
1 teaspoon vanilla flower water (the amount depends on the thickness of the mixture)
Mix all the ingredients into a porridge. Apply to cleansed skin. Leave on for 15-20 minutes. Then wash off with lukewarm water. Tone the skin with floral water and then apply your favourite facial oil or serum.
Relaxing vanilla bath
Add 2-4 tablespoons of vanilla flower water to a warm bath. The warm bath will help to release the vanilla scent and your body and mind will be pleasantly relaxed.
Sources:
S. Catty – Hydrosols The Next Aromatherapy, 2001.
Lydia Bosson – Hydrosol Therapy, 2019.
L. & S. Price – Understanding Hydrolats: The specific Hydrosols for Aromatherapy, 2004.
V. The Fragrant Mind: Aromatherapy for Personality, Mind, Mood and emotion, 1997.
Sinsuebpol C, Burapapadh K, Chowjaroen V, Changsan N. The radical scavenging activity of vanillin and its impact on the healing properties of wounds. J Adv Pharm Technol Res. 2023 Apr-Jun;14(2):99-104. doi: 10.4103/japtr.japtr_631_22. Epub 2023 Apr 13. PMID: 37255868; PMCID: PMC10226704.
Cheng HM, Chen FY, Li CC, Lo HY, Liao YF, Ho TY, Hsiang CY. Oral Administration of Vanillin Improves Imiquimod-Induced Psoriatic Skin Inflammation in Mice. J Agric Food Chem. 2017 Nov 29;65(47):10233-10242. doi: 10.1021/acs.jafc.7b04259. Epub 2017 Nov 14. PMID: 29073354.
Cinta Aveda: Benefits of Vanilla, 24.4.2014
P. Raina: History of Vanilla
Rodelle: Vanilla History
R. Rupp: The History of Vanilla, National Geographic, 23.10.2014.
